The Role of Topical Solutions in Pigmentation Removal

by Dr Wan Chee Kwang
September 6, 2024

Pigmentation, such as dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, is a common skin issue that affects many people. It often drives people to seek solutions that will help them achieve a more even skin tone.

Laser treatments are most effective in removing pigmentation. But to complement professional treatments, doctors may combine them with topical treatments.

In this article, we will see just how topical treatments can help with pigmentation removal.

What is pigmentation?

Pigmentation is the colouring of the skin, which is determined by melanin, a pigment produced by melanocytes in the skin. Sun exposure, hormonal changes, ageing, and inflammation are some factors that can trigger the overproduction of melanin, resulting in darker patches or spots on the skin.

Some common forms of pigmentation include:

  • Age spots: Dark spots or patches caused by excessive sun exposure.
  • Melasma: Brown or grey-brown patches that often appear on the face due to hormonal fluctuations.
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Dark spots that develop after an injury or inflammation, such as acne.

How topical treatment can help

Each topical treatment works differently and is more applicable for certain pigmentation conditions than others. Below is an overview of their effects. You should note, though, that a doctor would be best placed to assess the precise nature of your pigmentation and to recommend the most suitable solution, which can include a combination of topical and laser treatments.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is one of the most widely used ingredients in pigmentation treatments. It disrupts the tyrosinase enzyme responsible for melanin production. By reducing melanin synthesis, hydroquinone effectively lightens dark spots and patches.

Hydroquinone must be used under medical supervision, as its long-term use can lead to skin irritation and, in rare cases, ochronosis (a bluish-black discolouration).

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

Vitamin C is an antioxidant capable of brightening skin and reducing pigmentation. It inhibits melanin production and promotes collagen synthesis, refining skin texture and enhancing overall radiance.

Ascorbic acid, a form of Vitamin C, also neutralises free radicals that contribute to the development of pigmentation.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is a versatile skincare ingredient with multiple benefits, including pigmentation reduction. It works by limiting the transfer of melanin to the skin's surface, preventing the formation of dark spots.

Niacinamide is also anti-inflammatory, making it suitable for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Retinoids

Retinoids are highly effective in treating pigmentation by promoting skin cell turnover. This accelerated cell turnover helps shed and replace pigmented cells with new, evenly pigmented ones. Retinoids also boost collagen production, improving the skin's texture and softening the appearance of fine lines.

While retinoids are potent, they can irritate. So, starting with a lower concentration and cautiously increasing usage is important.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a natural ingredient originating from fungi. Like hydroquinone, it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase. It effectively treats various types of pigmentation, including melasma and age spots.

Kojic acid also has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage. However, it can irritate some individuals, so it should be used cautiously.

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a multifunctional ingredient particularly effective for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. It restricts tyrosinase and reduces the production of abnormal melanocytes.

Azelaic acid is also suitable for acne-prone skin, as it is anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial.

Licorice extract

Licorice extract is known for its skin-brightening properties. It contains glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase activity and helps reduce melanin production.

Licorice extract is especially effective in treating sun-induced pigmentation and can also soothe the skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

Alpha arbutin

Alpha arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone that restricts tyrosinase activity. It is effective against hyperpigmentation, including age spots and melasma.

Cysteamine

Cysteamine is a potent antioxidant that has recently gained popularity as an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation. It reduces cysteine levels in the skin, consequently decreasing melanin production.

Cysteamine cream is effective in treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and even certain types of pigmentary disorders. However, it can irritate some individuals, so it should be used under medical guidance.

Tranexamic acid

Tranexamic acid is an antifibrinolytic agent effective in treating melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes, reducing melanin production.

Tranexamic acid is generally well-tolerated and can be combined with other treatments.

N-Butylresorcinol

N-butyl resorcinol is a synthetic compound that has shown promising results in treating hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase and reducing melanin production.

N-butyl resorcinol is particularly effective in treating stubborn pigmentation, such as melasma and dark spots. It is often combined with other ingredients, such as hydroquinone or retinoids, for enhanced results. Additionally, exfoliative agents such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are commonly used alongside N-butyl resorcinol. These exfoliatives help to remove dead skin cells and improve skin tone and texture.

How topical treatment can be combined with laser therapy

Combining topical medication with laser therapy can provide a comprehensive approach to pigmentation removal treatment. Topical medications can help to maintain and enhance the results of laser therapy by preventing the recurrence of pigmentation.

For example, using hydroquinone or retinoids after laser treatment can help to prolong the effects and prevent new dark spots from forming. Vitamin C and niacinamide can soothe the skin and promote healing after laser therapy.

Why topical treatment cannot replace laser therapy

While topical treatments can lighten the appearance of pigmentation, they may not always be sufficient to address deeper or more stubborn pigmentation issues. Laser therapy, such as Q-switched or fractional lasers, can reach and work on deeper layers of the skin and more effectively break down pigment.

Lasers can also provide faster results compared to topical treatments alone. For individuals with severe or resistant pigmentation, they may need laser treatment to achieve the desired outcome.

Get pigmentation treatment in Singapore

If you're struggling with pigmentation and are seeking effective treatment options, you should consult a skin care professional to identify the best options for you.

1Aesthetics offers a range of pigmentation removal treatments in Singapore. We offer laser treatments that can be combined with topical solutions to deliver optimal results and help you achieve clearer skin.

Book a consultation with us today.

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